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sandblasting/glass bead cabinet advice?

Question:
I've decided to get one of these to facilitate my "hobby" of rebuilding rusty old junk. Can anyone advise as to good suppliers and what I ought to look out for? I see some reasonably priced stuff (around $300) in Hemmings Motor News.

My compressor can deliver about 14 cfm free air at 160 psi. Will this do?


Answer:
-I have dealt with TIP Sandblast equipment in the past. They advertise in Hemmings. They are very good to deal with. If you are going to one of the flea markets they usually have specials at a cheaper price. I have been using a small syphon model I bought from them several years ago. It is too slow and I wouldn't recommend that type. I will be upgrading to a pressure blaster in the near future. The TIP cataloge I have is several years old. It lists a model 99 that requires 7-15CFM @ 80PSI. That is max for my compressor, and that is the one I like. Your compressor must be a 5 HP or higher, so you have a larger selection.

The TIP number is 1 800 321-9260 fax (216) 533-2876.

I built a wooden box about 5'X3'X3' for small parts blasting. Lined it with old truck inner tubes. You can recover most of the media and reuse it 2 or 3 times.

-An Eastwood catalogue would be a good start.

My blast cabinet is an old '50s style fridge, the sort with a handle-operated door lock. It's mounted on a 2' high plinth of welded steel tube, with a folded sheet funnel underneath to recover the grit into a bucket. Inside the cabinet are more bits of welded steel tube, so as to allow the internal mesh shelf to be moved around or removed entirely. There's also a bar across the top to allow me to hang things from S hooks.

The top of the cabinet has a large hole, covered by simple plywood baffles. Ventilation is important, as if you don't give the air an easy exhaust path, it can blow grit back out through the inlet holes or even blow the door off its latches (the Mk1 version was a disaster, because of this). Lighting is by two bulkhead fittings, covered in cling film (saran wrap) as grit protection.

The door has the glove holes, window (cling film covered acrylic) and blast nozzle entries. These are a 2" disk of rubber sheet, with an X slot cut in them and a cloth flap on the inside.

My compressor is rated at 12cfm and isn't really big enough. It works OK, but not for continual use. The "pressure pot" blaster I use is much less demanding in airflow than a siphon type, but it's still thirsty.

Using the right grit is important (Eastwood is a good source of information). Try to find a local source, as shipping costs will otherwise be high. _Don't_ use sand - it's not much good for most purposes, and it has a health hazard (silicosis) due to the small fragments it produces.

-I have had excellent results withe the cabinet I bought from Truman Industries (they use an abbreviated name in their advertising) in Ohio. High quality and easily assembled.

I use plastic beads for gentle cleaning, glass beads for general cleaning up , and I use abrasive sand (flint shot) for severe clean up.

Don't buy hte vacuum attachment: Go to Walmart and get a shop vac instead. DO buy the accessory kit wiht the interior light--it's worth it.

I installed an electrical box with a switch and a duplex receptacle on the outside of my cabinet. When flipped on, the light and the vacuum both start up. That's real convenient.

Buy a clmpressor from Sam's Club or Walmart. I bought a vertical 5 or 6 horse model (Sanborn or Coleman) for under $400.00. It's fine for ordinary use. If you are runningn production o f12 hours a day five days a week, it won;t stand up to that, but for hoime owner or hobby use, it's fine.

Let me know how you make out.



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